Goldfish Health
Note: The following health information is a product of over 30 years of fishkeeping, attending two of Doc Johnson's health seminars, personal conversations with Doc Johnson, Rick Hess, and many goldfish keepers in person and on the internet. My intent is not to copyright this info but to share it freely as it has been shared with me. In most cases I have used the methods describe or have learned them from a trusted source.
Goldfish are known to be very healthy and
hardy fish. Pathogens do exist that can quickly kill your
goldfish-especially if the goldfish is not treated. The best way to
protect your goldfish collection is to prevent parasites and bacterial pathogens
from being introduced when a new fish arrives. Having an extra tank for
quarantining a new arrival and following a strict quarantine procedure will help
protect your existing collection and also give your new arrival his best shot at
a long healthy life. For more information see article “Quarantining Goldfish”
If you can control parasites and bacterial pathogens from entering the goldfish's environment then water quality and diet are the two main factors that can lead to a disease outbreak. Poor water quality and poor diet reduces the fish's immuno-supression (ability to fight disease).
So at the first sign of fish not looking well the first thing is to check is the water quality. Test for PH, Ammonia, and Nitrite. Optimal PH for goldfish is 7.4 to as high as 8.4. Regular PH testing gives you an idea of what the normal ranges are for you aquarium. A sudden drop in PH or PH crash is something that needs to be corrected immediately to avoid losing fish. Major water changes or adding baking soda to the tank are good immediate measures.
Ammonia and nitrite should be zero in an established tank. See "The First Few Weeks" section for more details on establishing a biological filter in a new aquarium. If this is an established aquarium and there is an ammonia or nitrite reading then something has disrupted the nitrifying bacteria or the bioload of the tank (more fish have been added) has increased more then the nitrifying bacteria can support. Daily water changes need to be done until Ammonia and Nitrite are zero. Certain water borne medications can disrupt the biological filter. Neglected filters or gravel that has not been vacuumed are other potential culprits.
A Nitrate test is also helpful in that low levels of Nitrate are not harmful to fish, but as they build they begin to impact the fish's health. Performing weekly water changes of at least 50% will help maintain the Nitrates at a safe level which should be 25 ppm or less.
If the water quality is acceptable then it is time to deduce which pathogen could be bothering your fish. At this time a microscope and the ability to do a microscopy examination of a scraping of the fish's slime will help pinpoint if a parasite is infesting and aid in the identification of the parasite.
The scraping method for microscopy is the wet mount of a slime scrape taken from the body and gills of the fish using a coverslip to carefully remove some of the fish's protective slime, scraping in the direction of nose towards the tail. Once wet mounted the slide must be examined immediately. For more details on scraping and microscopy it is well worth investing in Doc Johnson's book and video. See Sources of Medication for more details on where to purchase.
If a microscopy is not possible then the best first line treatment is non-iodized salt and medicated fish food. Salt will clear 80% of the parasites known to infect goldfish. Add 1 teaspoon per gallon of non-iodized salt every 12 hours until you reach a concentration of 3 teaspoons per gallon. The reason adding the salt in increments is so the nitrifying bacteria will not be disrupted. The medicated food is for potential bacterial pathogens that could secondarily infect the fish's tissues a the point where the parasite attached. The preferred medicated food on the market is Medi-Gold. Second to would be Romet medicated catfish chow and a third choice would be the Tetra medicated food (if you can find a fresh container at your local fish store). If the fish are responding to the salt treatment then maintain the salt for two weeks. Be sure to replace salt removed with water changes.
If after 2-3 days the fish are still not responding then a closer look at symptoms is in order. The following is a list of symptoms and some possible causes and treatments:
Fish are hanging near the surface and gulping for air and breathing rapidly.
Fish are scratching themselves against objects in the tank (flashing).
Fish has visible parasites or attached worms.
Fish floating upside down.
Fish has cloudy eyes.
Fish have white spots.
Fish is bloated and scales are standing out like a pinecone.
Fish have black spots on body and/or fins.
Fish have ulcers, lumps, or brown spots.
Fungus or white cottony patches on the fish.
Fish are hanging near the surface gulping air and breathing rapidly. This can indicate a low level of dissolved oxygen, parasitic infection of the gills, bacterial infection of the gills, poor water quality, or damaged gills.
Treatment: Check the water quality and change water if needed. Second increase the aeration of the water. If after a few hours the fish are still gasping check the gills by carefully lifting the gill cover of the fish. The gills should be a nice, blood red color and the filaments should be free of mucous and not clumped together. Gills that are covered with mucous or with filaments that are clumped together indicate a possible parasite problem on the gills, most likely gill flukes (Dactylogyrus). Again, a microscopy on a scrape of the gills and body slime would confirm this diagnosis but if without a microscope then treat as if they were flukes. (See Fluke Treatment section for details on treatment.) White stripes on the gills could indicate a bacterial pathogen. Start feeding medicated food immediately; treating for flukes would also be prudent as the bacterial pathogen may have got a foot hold secondarily to the parasitic invasion.
One other potential cause for fish to gasp is damage to the gills. Gills can be damaged by not dechlorinating the tap water added to the aquarium, or overdosing on medications like Potassium Permanganate or Formal in, or a chronic situation of poor water quality. If your fish suffers from gill damage then the best you can do is to increase aeration to assist in the breathing but keep in mind that anything that decreases the amount of oxygen in the water (high water temperature, poor water quality, etc.) may quickly kill the fish.
Fish are scratching themselves against objects in the tank (flashing). Scratching can indicate poor water quality or parasites. The first thing to do is check the water quality and change water as needed. If water quality is acceptable then parasites can be assumed to be the culprit. Start by adding 1 teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon every 12 hours until you reach a concentration of 3 teaspoons per gallon. After 2-3 days if the fish are still actively flashing or getting worse then body flukes (gyros) can be assumed. See the Fluke Treatment section for details on treatment. Also, there is a potential that the fish could have a salt resistant strain of Costia. In that case increase the salt to 6 teaspoons per gallon adding 1 teaspoon per gallon every 12 hours. In 1-2 days of no improvement then try treating with Quick Cure. Again having a microscope and knowing how to use it will help save your fish in this situation.
Fish has visible parasites or attached worms. Fish lice (Argulas) and Anchor worms (Lernea) are best treated with Super D. The dosage is 1 gram to 1000 gallons. Although determining the dosage for an aquarium is tricky, Super D is safe and has a wide margin of error as far as overdosing. I have found a 0.2 ml scoop works for 50 gallons.
Fish floating upside down. This indicates a condition know as swim bladder disorder or flip over. This condition is common in round bodied goldfish. The swim bladder is actually two small bags of air inside the goldfish that when working properly gives the fish neutral buoyancy in the water. To control the amount of air in the swim bladder there is a duct (called the stom) that attaches the swim bladder to the esophagus. This allows air to be released from the swim bladder through the esophagus. The problem occurs when the stom becomes blocked or damaged. This damage can be from chronic digestive problems, internal parasites, bacterial pathogens, or a mass such as a tumor pressing on the stom that prevents air from being vented from the swim bladder through the esophagus. Also, chronic high nitrates have been identified as causing damage to the stom. Which leads to the fish floating.
Treatment: When floating is first noted stop feeding for 3 days then feed frozen peas that have been defrosted and shelled. This will help clean out the digestive system. If floating continues then pre-soak pelleted food in a container with 1 ounce water and a pinch of Epsom Salts. Soak for 10-15 minutes then discard the solution and feed the pellets. Try this only once or twice as regular ingestion of Epsom Salts will harm the fish's digestive system.
These methods work in the early stages of digestive related floating and can help control the floating to allow the fish to live a reasonably normal life. Once a fish begins to float upside down a good percentage of the time or all the time then it may be the beginning of the end. Goldfish really can't eat and digest food properly when upside down all the time and they will eventually become weak and susceptible to parasites or bacterial pathogens. It's time to consider the humane choice of euthanizing the fish.
As of this writing there is some research and surgery being performed to correct floating caused by swim bladder problems. This work is being done by Dr. Erik Johnson in Marietta, Georgia. For more information on the surgery and flipover: http://www.koivet.com/flipover/
Fish has cloudy eyes. Cloudy eyes on goldfish can be caused by abrasion, water quality, or bacteria. The first thing is to check is water quality and perform water changes to correct the problem. If water quality acceptable then abrasion could be the cause. Adding 1 teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon will help stimulate the fish's protective slime coat and speed healing. If within a couple days of good water quality and salt the eye(s) have not improved then it is time to administer antibiotics. Injection of 0.1 cc of baytril usually clears cloudy eyes rapidly. Medicated food works well also.
Fish have white spots. This is a common parasite known as Ich which is short for Ichthyophthirius multifilis. This parasite is easily cleared with non-iodized salt at three teaspoons per gallon. Be sure to treat for 5 days after the last spot has disappeared. Quick Cure is also a very good treatment but may interrupt the biological filter. Warming the tank to 80-82 F will accelerate the life cycle of Ich and speed up the eradication of the parasite. Note: warmer temps should only be attempted with adequate aeration. Warming the water is not recommended in treating other parasites.
Fish is bloated and scales are standing out like a pinecone. This condition is known as Dropsy. Dropsy is where the kidneys have shut down and the fish is unable to eliminate fluids from its body. This condition is usually caused by internal infection and is more prevalent in the spring for both pond and aquaria housed fish. It can also be caused by an internal mass pressing on the kidney preventing it from working properly.
This condition is difficult at best to reverse. The key to success is early treatment. If you see any raised scales then begin treatment immediately. I've had some limited success with the combination of high water temperatures (84 F) for 30 days, Epsom Salts at 1 teaspoon every 5 gallons for no more than14 days, and feeding a medicated food for 10 days. Joanne Burke of Dandy Oranda (hometown.aol.com/Lazulifawn) perfected this method and uses it with good success although she recommends 1/8 of a teaspoon of Epsom Salts per gallon. I use the teaspoon per 5 gallon dose as the math is easier. This method will reverse the bloating and standing out scales.
Again, early treatment of this disorder is critical. Once the bloating has advanced to where all scales standing out then the chance of recovery is less and the chance of reoccurrence is greater. But I would encourage you to try to save the fish as long as you can isolate it for the treatment. Also, before exposing the fish to such high water temperatures be sure that there is adequate aeration as warm water absorbs less oxygen.
Fish have black spots on body and/or fins. The is know as Melanaphore Migration. This indicates that the fish has been exposed to something caustic that has burned it's tissue. This can be caused by the fish being exposed to a very low PH or high ammonia. This condition is usually seen in fish shipped long distances. The good news is the black tissue indicates healing is taking place and the black areas fade away in 3-6 weeks.
Fish have ulcers, lumps, or brown spots. This usually indicates an aeromonus infection. Aeromonus needs to be treated aggressively. Medicated food is good but the best method is to inject the fish with Baytril, Amikacin, or Azactem. Be aware there are some resistant forms of this pathogen.
If you lose a tank of fish to a suspected aeromonus pathogens the tank and all attachments should be sterilized. A 1:30 bleach water ratio will do it. After all fish have been removed add enough bleach to the tank to make up the 1:30 ratio (i.e. for a 30 gallon tank add 1 gallon of bleach). Remove and dispose all filter media and run filters on the tank with the bleach solution for 24 hours. Then drain the tank and take everything apart for a thorough cleaning. Of course you will be starting over with a new tank that will have to go through the new tank cycle to establish the biofilter.
There is a new medication called LymnoZyme that is available for treating aeromonus and pseudomonas that is getting good reports of effectiveness.
Lumps can also be caused by tumorous internal growths. In this case antibiotics will be ineffective. How fast the tumor grows and whether is is malignant or benign will determine final outcome for the fish.
Fungus or white cottony patches on the fish. True fungus is usually caused by poor water quality. Fungus is generally on most of the fish's body and is whitish gray in appearance. Water changes to improve water quality will help clear the fungus. A water borne treatment of Sulfa 4 TMP will cure fungus rapidly.
White cottony patches around the mouth and head or near the tail is usually Columnaris. Columnaris is often confused with fungus. Columnaris is treated with antibiotic foods and a water borne antibacterial such as Nitrofuracin Green. Keep in mind that treating with antibiotic and antibacterial water borne chemicals will disrupt the biological filter and frequent water changes will be required to keep water quality good.
Fluke Treatment. The most common treatment for flukes is Fluke Tabs. Fluke Tabs are very effective against flukes. If you have soft water (GH or KH less than 50 ppm) then treating with Fluke Tabs must be done carefully. With soft water treat with Fluke Tabs at 75% of the normal dosage. Treat for 24 hours, perform a 90% water change, then another 75% dose in 48 hours. After 24 hours another 90% water change.
Praziquantel is the best treatment for flukes and the least stressful to the fish. Praziquantel is treated at 3 mg/liter. Praziquantel is available under the brand name of Droncit by prescription from a veterinarian and is used to treat tape worms.
The most common treatment for fluke among pond keepers is potassium permanganate (KMnO4). Potassium permanganate is caustic stuff and must be handled with caution or serious eye, respiratory, or skin injury can result. Treating with potassium permanganate is tricky to keep the right dose in the water. Potassium permanganate oxidizes all organic matter in the water and this reduces it's effect on parasites. The usual dose is 2-3 ppm and more added to keep the water pink for the treatment period of 10-12 hours. A 50% water change is recommended after each treatment. Two treatments 3 days apart is effective on flukes. Sodium Thiosulphate (dechlor) and Hydrogen Peroxide quickly neutralize potassium permanganate.
Formalin is also effective against fluke but must be treated with caution. Formalin reduces dissolved oxygen in the water and can damage gills.
Sources for medications. The following links are sources for medications. This is not an all inclusive list but these are trusted sources.
Aquatic Ecosytems - www.aquaticecosystems.com
Major Aquaculture supplier. Many medications and supplies.
Fishy Farmacy - www.fishyfarmacy.com
Source for:
Sodium Thiosulphate, Nitrofuracin Green, Potassium Permanganate, Sulfa 4 TMP,
and many other medications.
Goldfish Connection - www.goldfishconnection.com
Source for: Medi-gold, Quick Cure, and Doc Johnson's book and video tape.
Koistuff.com - www.koistuff.com
Source for: Super D, Potassium Permanganate, LymnoZyme, and many other hard to find
medications.
Copyright 2002 Rick G. Copeland