Originally published on Goldfish Connection’s website, “Topics of Interest”  www.goldfishconnection.com/ and GFSA Goldfish Report July/August 1999.

“Quarantining Goldfish”

By: Rick G. Copeland

 As goldfish collectors, we are constantly looking to expand our collection.  Finding and acquiring a new addition to our collection is the thrill that makes this hobby so addictive.  This thrill of acquisition can quickly turn to frustration if our new addition comes with some unwanted parasites or bacterial pathogens.  This frustration can quickly turn to heartache should we infect our existing collection with these unwelcome intruders.  Quarantining all new arrivals is the only way to protect our existing collections and to give our new friends the best shot at a long and healthy life.

 The Quarantine Tank.

Proper quarantining requires some advanced preparation.  First we must decide what size quarantine tank we need.  If you normally buy small goldfish (1-2 inches) then a ten-gallon tank will suffice.  If you collect medium to large goldfish (3-7 inches) then a twenty-gallon tank is recommended.  And if you collect extra large, show goldfish (8 inches plus) then a forty to fifty gallon tank is required.  The number of goldfish you purchase at a time needs to be considered as well.

Once you decide the size of the tank, choosing the location is next.  The quarantine tank should be set up in a quiet, low traffic area to give your new arrivals some peace and quiet.  This location also needs to be where careful observation of the new fish is convenient.  Also, be sure to locate the quarantine tank far enough away from your other tanks so that splashing of water cannot spread contamination.  It is also a good idea to have separate cleaning utensils for quarantine tanks.  In my set up the quarantine tanks are cleaned and water changed last, after all the other tanks have been maintained. 

At this point you need to decide if your quarantine tank will be a permanent set up or a temporary one.  I prefer permanently setup quarantine tanks, although temporary setups work with some advanced planning.

A quarantine tank, whether permanent or temporary, is a bare tank with an air driven sponge filter, a heater, and an optional over-the-back power filter.  The quarantine tank must be fully cycled.  That is to say that it has already gone through the new tank cycle of high ammonia and nitrite concentrations.  New fish will not be able to withstand the stress of breaking in a new tank while trying to recover from the stress of shipping or fighting off parasites.  The heater in the quarantine tank is for regulating the temperature.  Goldfish digestion is more efficient at 72 degrees Fahrenheit and above.  I keep my quarantine tanks at 74-76 degrees Fahrenheit. Higher temperatures speed up the life cycle of parasites.  This is desirable when treating for Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis); not so desirable when treating other parasites.

One way to accomplish a fully cycled tank, with a temporary quarantine setup, is to keep an air driven sponge filter running in a healthy populated tank.  That way when your quarantine tank is needed it’s a simple matter of filling the quarantine tank with water from the healthy tank and moving the cultured sponge filter in.  The same process can be done with an over-the-back power filter.  Keeping the permanent quarantine tank’s biofilter going requires a bioload to feed the nitrifying bacteria.  In my collection I have a few “blue collar” goldfish that keep my quarantine tanks going.  These fish are moved to other tanks when the quarantine tanks are needed.  The biofilter could also be fed a few drops of pure ammonia to keep them going.  For more information on the use of pure ammonia look for info on “fishless cycling”.  

Acclimation.

When introducing new goldfish to the quarantine tank a little extra time spent acclimating can make a big difference in the recovery of the new fish.  Depending on the size of the fish and amount of shipping water, place the new fish and his shipping water in a 1-5 gallon bucket.  Then add a small amount (2-4 ounces) of tank water every five minutes and observe the fish carefully.  The addition of an air stone during this acclimation period will also assist in the fish’s recovery.  After adding water over a one-hour period, remove the fish from the bucket and place him in the quarantine tank.  Use only wet hands to capture and move goldfish.  Nets disrupt their protective slime coat and can injure their scales.  Be sure to discard the shipping water.  Do not add it to the quarantine tank.  This water will be high in ammonia and could be teeming with parasites looking for a host.

Treatment During Quarantine.

For recommended treatment protocols I refer to Dr. Erik Johnson (www.koivet.com).  He has outlined three treatment protocols depending on the health of the incoming fish and your confidence in your supplier.  The following protocols call for a fourteen to thirty-day quarantines.

Basic – Salt to 0.3-0.6 % (3-6 teaspoons of non-iodized salt per gallon.  Treat with Fluke Tabs ™ on day two.  Two days later perform 50-70 % water change.  Replace salt removed with water change. Continue salt treatment for duration of quarantine.  Duration: 14 days.

Comprehensive – Salt to 0.3 %.  On day two increase salt to 0.6 %.  Treat daily for three days with 500mg Metronidazole per 10 gallons.  Fluke Tabs ™ every third day for two treatments performing 50-70 % water changes between treatments.  After all the above is done treat with Dimilin or Program ®.  Continue salt treatment for duration of quarantine.  Duration: 30 days.

Sick Incoming Fish -- Inspect for gross and microscopic parasites.  Treat with salt or Dimilin as required.  Inject all incoming fish with Amikacin or Azactam.  Formalin Protocol: 25 ppm with 50-90 % water change in two hours.  Treat daily or every other day for three treatments.  Duration: 30 days minimum.

The only step I would add to the above listed protocols is to feed the new fish a medicated food (i.e. Medi-Gold).

In summary, the quarantine process not only protects your existing collection, it also gives the incoming fish a chance to recover from the stress of shipping, whether their journey was from the local fish store or air freighted across the country.

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Copyright 2002 Rick G. Copeland