Filtration

Originally published on Goldfish Connection’s website, “Topics of Interest” www.goldfishconnection.com/

“Filtration Options for Goldfish Aquariums”

By: Rick G. Copeland

If you’re ever among a group of goldfish keepers and you want a little excitement just bring the subject of filtration. To be on the safe side, you might want to make sure that there are no sharp objects in the room before the subject is broached.

There are many options and combinations of options available when selecting filtration for goldfish tanks. My hope is to present these options so that you can make a logical choice on what will work best for you.

MECHANICAL, BIOLOGICAL, AND CHEMICAL FILTRATION.

Before discussing the different types of filter let’s look at the basic goals we’re trying to achieve with our filtration system.

Mechanical Filtration -- The removal of the solid detritus (fish poop) and uneaten fish food from the aquarium. To accomplish this the filter(s) must generate enough circulation so the solids don’t settle to the bottom. The media to trap these solids can be pleated paper cartridges, Dacron floss, filter sponges, etc. This media is rinsed or replaced at regular intervals

Biological Filtration -- Provides a medium in which nitrifying bacterial can flourish. This media varies with different filters. The more oxygen supplied to this nitrifying bacteria the more efficient the Bio-filter.

Chemical Filtration – The use of chemicals to absorb impurities or alter the chemical makeup of the water. Some of the chemical filtration products are ammonia absorbing resins and charcoal. These types of media must be regularly recharged or replaced. Personally I don’t use chemical filtration. My feelings are that with good mechanical filtration, healthy biological filtration, and weekly water changes, chemical filtration is unnecessary.

FILTRATION TYPES

POWER FILTERS -- One of the most popular types of filters. Power filters hang on the back of the tank. They can provide mechanical filtration, biological filtration, and chemical filtration.

There are many brands of this type of filters. Different brands have varying types of filtration media.

My personal favorite is the type of power filters that use sponges as the filter media. These filters will also accommodate resins or charcoal for chemical filtration. Instead of using chemical media I double up of the sponges. By alternating which sponge sponge gets rinsed out, established nitrifying bacteria will be left undisturbed on the other sponge.

Certain brands on power filters have bio wheels attached for additional biological filtration. Bio wheels are addressed as an individual topic later in this article.

Cannister Filters – Cannister filters are another type of power filtration that has been available to fish keepers for some time. One advantage with cannister filters is that there is more room for media allowing for more combination of filtration media types. Also, cannister filters are more efficient in moving the water through the filtration media.

Optional media for cannister filters includes sponges, Dacron floss, pleated paper cartridges, ceramic and plastic shapes for biological growth, and of course chemical media.

One disadvantage to cannister filters is that they can be difficult to service. Disconnecting them from the water supply and return lines can be a wet experience if you don’t have shut off valves installed or forget to use them. Another disadvantage is that should circulation in a cannister filter stop the healthy aerobic bacteria die quickly. If the filter should stop for some time then restart a toxic flood of anaerobic bacteria by-products will be flushed into the tank. This can happen with any type of filter but since the cannister is a sealed system it will go anaerobic in a shorter amount of time.

SPONGE FILTERS – Sponge filters are air driven filters that draw water through a sponge. Sponge filters are excellent for biological filtration. They are poor for mechanical filtration. The exception to this is when using them for fry tanks. Then, with regular rinsing of the sponge, a sponge filter will provide mechanical filtration without endangering the baby fish. Sponge filters have no chemical filtration capability.

By far the best sponge filter is the cylindrical type mounted on a weighted pedestal. These filters have large sponges that can be stacked to increase bio-capacity. A power head can be used to drive them. Attaching the power head to the filter is somewhat awkward so I prefer to use air to drive these types of sponge filters.

INTERNAL CARTRIDGE FILTERS – These filters are driven by submersible water pumps similar to power heads. They use sponges for mechanical and biological filtration. Some of the larger models can also accommodate media for chemical filtration. These filters are well suited for smaller tanks and quarantine tanks.

UNDER GRAVEL FILTERS – The under gravel filter consists of a slotted, plastic plate that rests on the bottom of the tank and gravel is placed on top. Water is then drawn through a 1-2 inch layer of gravel either by air driven lift tubes or power heads.

This filter is by far the most controversial among goldfish keepers. Problems can arise with under gravel filters if the gravel is not regularly vacuumed and they are used for mechanical as well as biological filtration. I view the under gravel filter as biological filter only. A power or cannister filter must be used in conjunction with an under gravel filter in order to provide effective mechanical filtration.

When setting up an under gravel filter the proper flow rate must be determined. For an under gravel filter to function properly a flow rate of 1-2 gallons per minute per square foot is required. For example a 55-gallon tank has roughly four square feet of bottom area. This would require 240-480 gallons per hour of flow rate to ensure proper circulation through the gravel. Using power heads to drive an under gravel filter is highly recommended.

Regular vacuuming of the gravel is required to ensure that no accumulated waste builds up and no pockets of anaerobic activity is allowed to grow or sulfide gas to accumulate. Also, every 6 to 18 months the gravel and filter plates should be removed to clean any built up waste.

REVERSE FLOW UNDERGRAVEL FILTER – This filter is basically the same as a standard under gravel filter except the water flows from under the filter plates, up through the gravel. This is done by attaching the outflow of a cannister filter or power head to one a lift tube of the under gravel filter. All other lift tubes are removed or sealed off. It is important that the water pumped under the gravel be pre-filtered so that waste will not accumulated under the filter plates.

The advantage of this type of under gravel filter is that the solid waste is kept above the gravel where it can be removed by a cannister or power filter. Regular vacuuming of the gravel is still recommended to clear any channeling or dead spots that may form in the gravel.

WET/DRY FILTERS – Is one of the most efficient biological filters is the wet/dry filter. This filter was developed for saltwater reef aquariums for optimum water quality. The concept is that nitrifying bacteria thrives in an oxygen rich environment. This oxygen rich environment is pre-filtered water dripping over various plastic shapes (bio-balls).

One concern with using a wet/dry filter on a goldfish tank is to provide enough circulation to ensure adequate mechanical filtration.

There is also an overhead wet/dry filter that is gaining popularity among goldfish keepers. These filters rest on the top of the tank and are designed for aquariums with the capacity of 30 gallons or under.

BIO WHEELS – Bio wheels are cylinders constructed of pleated paper. The bio wheel turns with the flow of water produced from the outlet of a power filter, cannister filter, or a power head. This action results in an oxygen rich environment for maintaining nitrifying bacteria. The extra oxygen added to the water by bio wheels is a welcome addition to any goldfish tank.

FLUIDIZED FILTERS – Fluidized filters consist of a container containing sand that pre-filtered water is circulated through. The sand becomes the media on which the nitrifying bacteria will establish. The advantage of this type of filter is that while the sand is in motion the nitrifying bacteria is constantly exposed to nutrients and oxygen.

DESIGNING YOUR FILTRATION SYSTEM

Filtering a goldfish tank requires both mechanical and biological filtration. When deciding on a filter design for a goldfish tank I prefer not to put all my eggs in one basket. That is to say I prefer having two types of filtration on each tank. For tanks with gravel I use an under gravel filter combined with either a power filter or cannister filter. For bare tanks I use sponge filters in combination with power filters or cannister filters.

When sizing your filter requirements remember that goldfish produce a lot of waste. To be on the safe side I would use twice the filter that the manufacturer recommends. For example, if a filter will handle up to a 125-gallon tank I would add two such filters to a 125-gallon tank.

While you do want enough circulation to remove all detritus and uneaten food you don’t want to overdo it. Fancy, round-bodied goldfish are not the most efficient swimmers. When positioning the outflows for you filters, be aware of what flow patterns you are setting up. Don’t hesitate to add sponges to out flow tubes to help break up the flow of the water. Also, try to keep the surface of the water agitated. This is where the most of the exchange happens between air and water.

In summary when selecting your filter set up think about how much work it will be to maintain. Also, take a look at what your local fish store uses. Ask fellow fish keepers. Then determine what will work best for you. Keep in mind all filtration types require regular attention. If ignored, any filter can become a ticking time bomb.

back to Articles

Back to home page