Originally published on Goldfish Connection’s website, “Topics of Interest”  www.goldfishconnection.com/

“Putting it All Together”

By: Rick G. Copeland

So you’re ready to take the plunge and set up a goldfish tank.  Congratulations and welcome to the addictive hobby of goldfish collecting.  In this article I hope to pass on a few tips that will add to your enjoyment of this hobby as well as helping you avoid a few pitfalls.

Most local fish stores sell complete aquarium setups with everything except water.  These one-size-fits-all setups are usually inadequate for goldfish.  Although they are a good start they usually require a little upgrading in regards to filtration.  In a previous article I discussed the different filtration options available for goldfish tanks.  Hopefully this material will help in your selection of equipment for your aquarium.

The Tank

Selecting the size and shape aquarium for goldfish requires some special consideration.  If you have already been shopping at your local fish store you’ve probably already heard the advice to buy as big of tank as your budget will allow.  While this sounds like a sales pitch it is actually sound advice.  Larger aquariums are more stable and easy to maintain.  Water quality and temperature do not fluctuate as rapidly in larger aquaria as opposed to small.  This gives the fishkeeper and his or her fish a greater safety margin.  Also, since goldfish grow to a fairly large size (10+ inches) they require larger accommodations.  At minimum ten gallons of tank space must be allowed for each goldfish.  If your intent is to collect large, show-quality goldfish then this limit increases to 20-30 gallons per goldfish. 

A common pitfall for the new goldfish keeper is to start out with a smaller aquarium with smaller goldfish with the intention to purchase a larger tank when the budget allows.  Well, goldfish growth and financial growth rarely follow the same statistical curve and the goldfish usually lose out.  Crowding stunts a goldfish’s growth.  Parasites and bacterial pathogens run rampant under crowded conditions.   In a crowded tank water quality is difficult to maintain, requiring very frequent water changes just to keep the fish alive.  All this can lead to a lot of frustration for the new fishkeeper.

The shape of the goldfish tank is also important.  The more water surface area the better.  This makes tall, narrow show tanks a bad choice for housing goldfish.  Most goldfish keepers prefer aquariums 24 inches tall or less.  My personal favorite is the 75-gallon aquarium.  The 20-inch height provides proper water depth for the goldfish while the 48-inch length makes it easy to find suitable locations around the house.

You can elect to construct your own aquarium out of plate glass and silicone rubber.  But with the cost of custom cut, plate glass the savings may be minimal.  Some local fish stores deal in used or repaired aquariums.  Also, check the want adds in your local paper for used aquariums for sale.

The Stand

Once set up, aquariums are heavy.  They require stands specifically built for aquariums.  Once an aquarium is set up it can weigh as much as 10 pounds for each gallon of capacity.  When selecting an aquarium stand, look for solid construction.  An aquarium stand should be designed to distribute the weight evenly across the floor.  If a stand sits on legs then it’s a good idea to place wooden planks under the legs to help distribute the load.  Try to avoid stands constructed with particleboard.  Accidents happen.  Tanks get overfilled, filters back up, and water gets spilled.  Once wet, particleboard begins to swell.  This swelling eventually leads to disintegration of the particleboard.

You can also elect to construct your own stand.  Design of a stand can be as simple as concrete blocks (cinder blocks) and wooden timbers to as complex as custom cabinets.

Location for the Aquarium

Before you purchase your new aquarium, consider where it will be placed in your home.  Placing the tank against an interior wall is best.  Placing the tank near an exterior wall can lead to temperature fluctuations.  Also, heat/air-conditioning registers should be avoided for the same reason.

Basements are ideal locations for aquariums.  There is little temperature fluctuation near exterior walls and a solid concrete floor for supporting the tank(s).

Also, consider where your water and drain source will be.  Sloshing buckets of water through the house doing water changes is hard work.  It can also cause discord with family members over your new hobby.  Locating the tank near a laundry sink is ideal.

Setting up the Aquarium

Before placing the aquarium on the stand make sure the stand is level and does not wobble.  Obtain a piece of ¾ inch Styrofoam sheeting from a home center or lumberyard.  Cut the Styrofoam to the same size as the outside dimensions of the bottom of the tank.  Place the cut Styrofoam on the stand prior to setting the tank on it.  The Styrofoam will act as a cushion to ensure the tank is equally supported at all points.  A couple pieces of double-sided tape will help hold the Styrofoam in place on the stand while positioning the tank.

Now it is time to add the substrate.  If using an undergravel filter place one to two inches of rinsed aquarium gravel on top of the filter plates.  If no undergravel filter then place washed river rock or a very thin layer of aquarium gravel along the bottom of the tank.  Too much gravel can lead to pockets of anaerobic activity that can result in pockets of sulfide or methane gas that is toxic to fish.  Some goldfish keepers, for ease of maintenance, keep their tanks bare without any substrate.

When decorating a goldfish tank its best to keep it simple for ease of maintenance.  Large rocks can be dangerous to goldfish as they can be trapped in between them and the sides of the aquarium.  Also, placing large rocks on top of gravel can create areas for anaerobic activity to get a foothold.

If plants are desired decide whether you want live or plastic.  Raising live plants with goldfish can be a challenge.  Goldfish love to eat plants.  Some goldfish keepers buy inexpensive floating plants (i.e. Anacharis) just for this purpose.  In goldfish tanks I prefer plastic plants.  Plastic plants are easily rinsed off.  Soaking plastic plants in a mild bleach solution will remove any unwanted algae.  Be sure to buy plastic plants that are made for aquariums so as not to risk introducing any toxins to your tank. 

Depending on your climate you may want to add a heater to your goldfish tank.  Goldfish digestion is more efficient at temperatures of 74 F and above.  Keeping a heater in a goldfish tank will control temperature fluctuations that can stress the fish.

At this point it’s a good idea to start installing any external filters (i.e. power filters, canister filters, etc…).  It is much easier to make adjustments to external filters when you’re not up to your elbows in water.  Do not start the filters until the tank is nearly full.  Running filters dry can cause damage.

Filling the Aquarium

Whether using buckets or a hose be careful when filling your newly set aquarium as to not stir up things too much.  If there is gravel in the tank place a dinner plate or similar flat object on the bottom of the tank to deflect the water and avoid stirring up the gravel.

Be aware that using cold water to fill your tank will result in a lot of condensation on the outside of the tank until the water warms up.  This condensation can lead to a panic attack or two when it looks like your new aquarium is leaking all over the new carpet.

Plugging it All In

Now that the tank is filled within an inch or two to the top its time to plug in the filters, powerheads, heaters, air pumps, etc.  As a safety measure you should always unplug any electrical device that is in contact with the water while you are servicing your aquarium.  I use a separate power strip for these devices so it’s just a matter of switching them off.

Be sure to follow manufacturer’s directions when starting the filter(s).

Adding the Fish.

It’s best to let your new tank run 2-3 days before adding fish.  This time will allow the dissolved gases from the water to dissipate.  This is also the time to make sure the filters are running OK and if using a heater the temperature is where it should be.

In a newly set up tank the nitrifying bacteria, that will control the ammonia produced by your fish, is not established yet.  This is called the new tank syndrome.  So you will want to start out with only one or two fish.  You will also want to have a test kit on hand to monitor the water quality during this critical period.  Daily water testing is important when establishing a new tank.

A few days after fish are added to a new tank, ammonia levels will begin to climb.  During this period whenever ammonia is detected in the tank a 25-50% daily water change should be performed.  Also, with goldfish, the addition of 1 teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon will help your fish during this stressful period. 

Once the ammonia levels begin to decline the nitrite levels will start to climb.  Continue water changes until the nitrite level reads zero.  At this point your tank is considered cycled and additional fish can be added.  Be careful not to add too many fish at once or another ammonia/nitrite cycle could occur.

Regular Maintenance

Goldfish require good water quality in order to thrive.  Unfortunately goldfish also produce a lot of waste and ammonia.  To maintain good water quality weekly 25-50% water changes are required. 

When siphoning the water out of the tank, be sure to vacuum the gravel (if there is gravel in the tank).  There are devices sold specifically for draining and refilling aquariums.  These are useful put have one fault.  That fault is the same hose is used to both drain and fill.  Using the same hose to refill a tank as was used to drain it can lead to flushing waste matter back into the aquarium.

I prefer to drain and fill my tanks using garden hoses.  When draining the tanks a siphon is started in a garden hose that leads to a floor drain or toilet.  In my setup the wastewater from the aquariums is drained out onto the lawn.  Using a self-priming pump can accelerate this process.  These pumps are sold at most home centers.

For refilling I prefer to use the type of hose that is designed to provide drinking water to recreational vehicles.  I use a dishwasher quick-disconnect to attach the hose to the faucet.  Be sure to refill your tank with the same temperature water.

If you live in an area where tap water needs to be pre-treated to remove toxins or adjust PH, then you will need containers in which to age the water.  Brand-new plastic, trash cans work well for this.  Be sure to have enough capacity to change at least 50% of the water in your aquarium(s).  A self-priming pump will speed up the process of refilling.

Be sure to change or rinse the filter media in you power or cannister filters regularly.  Its best not to clean the filter at the same time as a water change.  This could remove too much of the nitrifying bacteria from the aquarium and cause an ammonia and/or nitrite spike.

When cleaning algae off the glass scrape only the sides of the aquarium that you view the fish from.  Let the algae grow on the other surfaces.  Algae helps to absorb ammonia and nitrates from the water.  Plus goldfish love to nibble on algae.

Make sure that the equipment and utensils you use to maintain your aquariums (hoses, buckets, etc.…) are used only for the aquariums and have not came into contact with soap or other chemicals.  Also, be sure to use algae pads that are manufactured as algae pads.  Many household cleaning sponges contain antibacterial chemicals that can be toxic to fish.

With regular maintenance and a good diet your goldfish aquarium will be a pleasant addition to your home.  Sit back, and enjoy the show!

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copyright 2002 Rick G. Copeland